For flattering, natural, and balanced eyebrows you need to recognize a few details that we have put together in this article.
Let’s start by understanding that eyebrows carry the highest value of the face. A well-defined brow can open up the entire eye area and work to improve the face’s overall symmetry.
When it comes to the eyes, much effort is spent choosing the right eyeshadows, the placement, and blending, liners, mascara, and brushes but it is also essential to think of the proper frame to enhance and bring focus to the eyes.
Without the eyebrows, there is no focus on them and a badly placed or shaped eyebrow will detract from the eye as well as from the makeup.
You should know, eyebrows are rarely the same on any individual. It is the makeup artist’s job to make them as similar as possible, not exact.
The parts of the eyebrow you should know
The parts of the eyebrow consist of the inner brow, the arch (peak and base), and the outer brow.
While eyebrows do have a definite shape, the shape is not usually clearly defined and is frequently hidden beneath hair growth or, in some cases, obscured by years of over-plucking or over-waxing.
Well-shaped eyebrows can take years off and enhance features. The overall shape of the eyebrows is unique and complements the remainder of each person’s features better than forced shaping or thinning.
How to identify your brow shape:
The first step in shaping brows is identifying the brow shape. You will need to use a brow pencil or other means of measurement for these important steps:
There are seven basic steps by which standards of measurements are used for creating and placing the classic eyebrow shape.
This is a guideline. It does not mean that every person should or will have this eyebrow shape.
STEP 1 — Inner Brow Line
To determine where brows should begin, place the pencil alongside the outer edge of the bottom of the nose, pointing straight up toward the forehead. This marks the head of the brow (about an inch above the inner corner of the eyes)
STEP 2 — Center Line
The center and arch (peak and base) position are determined by the centerline, which extends from the outside edge of the iris upward.
The arch should rise just above the outer rim of the eye and land right on the brow bone.
STEP 3 — Outer Brow Line
The outer brow line is determined by the distance from the inner brow line to the centerline, which is approximately an equal distance from the arch to the outer brow line.
Line the pencil up with the nostril and the outside corner of the eye, making sure the pencil extends past the brow. The brow should end where the pencil falls also known as the tail of the brow.
STEP 4 — Upper and Lower Lid Lines
The horizontal position of the eyebrow is determined by the width of the eye-opening, between the upper lid and the lower lid.
STEP 5 — Brow Line
The classic eyebrow begins with one full ‘open eye’ above the upper lash of the eye. This is the brow line.
To determine the thickness of an eyebrow start just below the fullest part of the brow, draw a line along the bottom edge, above any stray hairs, following the natural shape of the brow’s top line. The brow should be between a quarter-inch and a half-inch at the thickest.
STEP 6 — Arch Peak
The arch peak is approximately another full ‘open eye’ from the base of the brow.
STEP 7 — Arch Base Line
The arch base is approximately half the horizontal distance of the ‘open eye’. The same distance is also the height of the eyebrow, from the inner brow line to the center.
Shaping the eyebrows
There are some questions you may use to understand how to shape the eyebrows:
- Do the eyebrows appear heavy or over powering?
- Are the eyebrows hardly noticeable or too light?
- Is there a natural arch to the eyebrow or are the eyebrows flat?
- Are the eyebrows too round, without much of an arch?
- Is there a balance space between the eyebrows above the nose?
- Are there wholes of gaps in the eyebrow?
- Are there extra long hairs that extend up or down in the eyebrows?
- Are both eyebrows at the same elevation above the eyes?
Various eyebrow shapes can complement features in different ways.
For example, curved brows can soften an angular face, while flat brows can add more drama to a longer face.
Shaping the eyebrow involves several elements, which can be used in combination or separately. This is determined by the condition or shape of the existing eyebrow together with the desired shape. These elements are: brushing, trimming, and tweezing.
Brushing the eyebrow allows the artist to see what hairs might need to be removed or trimmed to achieve a faltering and open appearance to the eye.
Using a brow brush or disposable wand, brush the hairs of the eyebrow in an upward motion, starting at the inner brow line. Work toward the arch in short concise strokes changing the angle of the brush once the arch peak has been reached.
From the arch pick, work toward the outer brow line, brushing up and out to the outer brow line. Using the classic eyebrow shape as a guide, determine which hairs need to be removed or trimmed to achieve this shape.
Growth Pattern
It is important to note the direction of the hair growth within the sections. The hairs of the eyebrow grow on a very definite growth pattern, starting at the inner brow.
The thickest portion of hair is at the inner brow, with the hair narrowing as they go towards the arch and tapering more from the arch to the outer brow. This tapered will become a very fine point.
Types of Products to fill in and shape your eyebrows
- Brow Pencil — great to fill in and improve shape, the most common and possibly easier option.
- Brow Mascara with or without color – great to keep eyebrows in place during the day and to fill in gaps if the mascara has color.
- Brow Gel, wax or pomade — best for unruly, uneven brows that need more definition. These tend to look and last more throughout the day.
- Brow Powder — great to fill in the gaps and create a much softer look.
- Brow Pen or brow ink — to draw over sparse areas with less hair.
You might also need to consider getting a brow razor, scissors, brush, and tweezers.
Best steps to define your eyebrows (video)
When defining the eyebrows it is best to follow the growth pattern:
- Start at the inner brow.
- Continue filling over the arch.
- Then down to the outer brow.
This will give you a consistent pattern to follow and may be used on anyone no matter what eyebrow shape is desired.
